It’s a hot November morning in the Western Ghats of southern India, and I’m sitting on a wooden verandah surrounded by dense forest. writes Luca Eberle.
Suddenly, the shrill ring of a mobile phone breaks the silence. Ajay Giri, field director of the Agumbe Rainforest Research Station (ARRS), answers the call, concluding the conversation with a simple sari, meaning ‘all right’ in the Kannada language.
“There’s a king cobra near a school,” he informs us. Joined by programme coordinator Rithan Bopanna and field assistant Abhilash Achar, we grab our gear, jump into the field vehicle and hit the dirt road.
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Established by renowned herpetologist Romulus Whitaker, ARRS is a field station affiliated with The Madras Crocodile Bank Trust and Centre for Herpetology, near Chennai.
Over the years, the station has become an authority on the Western Ghats king cobra (Ophiophagus kaalinga) – scientists here were among the first in the world to use radio telemetry to study this elusive species in the wild. In addition to research, ARRS staff routinely rescue and release king cobras that stray into settlements, contributing to both conservation and community outreach efforts.
We arrive at a small house and the owners lead us around the back. Ajay scansthe underside of the roof with a torch until the wide scales of a king cobra reflect the light – it’s coiled between the wooden beams.
Meanwhile, Rithan and Abhilash position a capture bag against the wall as a group of curious children gathers nearby.
The retrieval only takes a few minutes. Ajay lifts the heavy snake from the roof cavity using a large metal hook, taking great care not to startle it or cause it stress. He grasps the cobra’s tail with one hand, supporting its body with the hook, and gently ‘walks’ ittowards the capture bag. The children remain silent, captivated by Ajay’s skill.
A collective gasp escapes as the snake turns toward Ajay, flaring its hood – a typical defence tactic to appear larger and intimidate predators – before sliding into the bag.
Rithan and Abhilash step in to secure the bag and tie it around the hook’s shaft. The cobra is now safely contained and can be released nearby. “We always strive to find release sites in the vicinity, so that snakes are not relocated,” Ajay explains.
Ajay has been working with king cobras for more than 17 years, and has rescued and released hundreds of individuals with support from the ARRS team. He has also handled numerous other venomous species, including the ‘big four’ – the Russell’s viper (Daboia russelii), common krait (Bungarus caeruleus), saw-scaled viper (Echis carinatus) and spectacled cobra (Naja naja), all of which have a frightening reputation for fatal bites.
Unlike its big four cousins the king cobra has a calmer temperament and rarely bites humans, yet Ajay takes no chances, conducting every step of the rescue and relocation with theutmost caution. Despite countless close encounters with snakes, he has never once been attacked. “If you receive multiple bites, it means you are not very good at your job,” he says. “You should be proud if you’ve never been bitten while handling snakes.”
We reach the release site a few minutes later. Following a precise protocol, Ajay opens the bag and the cobra slithers into the dense undergrowth. Abhilash and Rithan film the moment on their smartphones for ARRS’s social media, a crucial platform for raising awareness about their services and preventing human-snake conflicts.
Venomous snakes are drawn to homes by the presence of rodents and domestic animals. “This makes them particularly dangerous in rural areas,” Rithan explains, as we pass a village nestled among rice fields on our way back to the field station.
While effective antivenoms exist for the big four snakes, there is currently no specific antivenom for king cobra bites in India.
The king cobra is a beautiful and incredibly impressive reptile, often reaching 3-3.5m in length. It’s part of the elapid family, whose members are characterised by their permanently erect fangs. A top predator in its habitat, it usually ventures into human settlements in pursuit of other species, as it feeds primarily on other snakes – including its own kind.
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The behaviour gives rise to the genus name Ophiophagus, which mean ‘snake-eater’ in Greek. The snakes can turn up in a variety of places, tucked away in tool sheds, plantations and even bedrooms, and the ensuing rescue missions can be challenging and exhausting.
The species is most active just before the rainy season, when the males roam in search of females and battle rivals for mating rights. This is when Ajay’s team are at their busiest, sometimes carrying out up to seven rescues in a single day.
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The king cobra is unique – it’s the only snake species in India (and one of very few in the world) that constructs a nest for its eggs. The female builds a leaf-based structure on the ground, sometimes up to a metre in height, and lays between 15 and 40 eggs inside.
She guards the nest diligently until the eggs hatch, helping to maintain the right temperature for incubation. Nests occasionally appear in human landscapes, and as such are closely monitored by ARRS researchers, both to study the species’ unusual parental behaviour and to reduce the risk of conflict with people.
In India, snakebites cause more deaths than all other forms of human-wildlife conflict combined, with some 40,000 to 60,000 fatalities annually. For every death, there are another nine cases of severe injury or permanent disability.
The World Health Organisation recently classified snakebite as a Neglected Tropical Disease and, in 2024, Karnataka became the only Indian state to recognise snakebite as a Notifiable Disease.
This policy requires all snakebites treated in hospitals to be reported, which is a first and important step towards tackling the problem Snakebite injuries are a minor issue in big cities, yet plague rural areas. They impact the lowest-income populations, and have a far greater socio-economic impact than many people realise.
While other human-wildlife conflicts, which often involve large animals such as elephants or tigers, are mostly confined to protected areas, snakebites are ubiquitous and far harder to mitigate.
The snakebite issue is compounded by a lack of awareness among rural communities, leading to unsafe practices such as working in fields without decent footwear and walking around at night without torches. When snakebites occur, villagers often avoid seeking medical help and instead turn to local healers, who cannot treat venomous biteseffectively. And even when victims do reach a hospital, antivenom may not be available. Interestingly, antivenom may be less effective if produced in a different state.
“Venom varies regionally,” Ajay explains. “An antivenom produced in northern India using local snake venom may not work as well in southern India, and vice-versa. The most common antivenom – the polyvalent – works reasonably well for the big four, but not for the other dangerous species, including the king cobra.”
The best approach, of course, is to avoid getting bitten in the first place. As such, the ARRS team is committing significant resources to education in high-risk areas. They carry out presentations in schools, using lively slides to engage their young audiences, and hand out flyers and talk to locals after every rescue.
It’s evening, and only Rithan, Mahabala (the cook), and I are left at the field station, enjoying a light supper while basking in the cool breeze. In the distance, the distinctive call of the Malabar giant squirrel gradually fades away, replaced by the haunting songs of owls and the rhythmic chirping of crickets. I’m taking in this beautiful nocturnal symphony when a call comes in from Ajay.
A very large king cobra has turned up in a garden and bitten oneof the family’s two dogs. We jump on a motorbike this time, dodging potholes and weaving between cows lounging on the still-warm concrete. On arrival, we immediately spot the snake, high in a tree and likely startled by the pets. It’s a huge male, around 4m in length and, despite its bulk, it moves swiftly and gracefully among even the thinnest branches.
Ajay allows us to take a few photos, but as soon as the snake starts to descend, he quickly moves in to guide it down to theground. Family members and neighbours nervously press themselves against the wall as the cobra is nudged towards the capture bag. Unusually, this king appears agitated and doesn’t seem keen to enter the bag.
It turns toward Ajay, raising its head more than a metre high and spreading its hood wide. Its muscular body inflates and deflates rhythmically and it produces loud hissing sounds, while its forked tongue flicks rapidly to detect airborne molecules.
Ajay, though, can read this behaviour like a book. After a few attempts, he calm the snake and completes the capture. “This one is quite large,” Rithan says to Abhilash as they lift the sack. We pause to weigh it: 8kg; the team also scans its body with a small scanner until they hear a beep. Thedevice has detected a PIT (passive integrated transponder) tag, fitted just below the skin, which indicates a recapture.
This is not unusual, as kings often return to locations where they have previously found food. In addition to PIT tags, researchers can also implant radio-trackers beneath a snake’s skin. These allow the animal to be followed using receiving antennae, even in complex environments such as secondary forests.
Using this technology, scientists can track a cobra’s movements and behaviour, gain insights into how it uses its home range, and even detect its heart rate.
Studying behaviour can help us prevent accidents and better understand a species that, through its presence, can reduce bites from other venomous snakes,” Ajay explains to the small audience gathered around him. Before leaving, we check on the dog. It had been bitten by a Russell’s viper, not the king cobra, but has been given antivenom and should recove
After a few minutes drive, we pull up on a dirt road in a patch of forest. Ajay picks up the bag and asks everyone to step back. He carefully unties the knot and, with a gentle tap of the hook, encourages the snake to exit. Moments later, its coils begin to unroll and the sound of scales rustling against dry leaves pierces the quiet.
Finally out of the bag, the snake rises and turns towards Rithan and Abhilash, observing them for a few seconds as its tongue flicks rapidly in and out. It then turns away, disappearing into the forest where, a creature of both fear and reverence, it remains a vital piece of a rapidly changing ecosystem where growing urban sprawl pushes wildlife ever closer to humans – yet where humans, with the help of groups such as ARRS, are learning to coexist with these extraordinary creatures.
