Baja California Sur has turned into the world's hotspot to see orcas up close – and that’s where we were headed, says Andi Cross. We’d visited in peak season before (there are no regulations for swimming with orcas so it was nothing short of chaotic) and decided to go back in the off season.
We had local guides taking us out on the water. Both Félix Rochin – a shark fisherman turned eco-tour operator – and Héctor Franz (who knows all there is to know about the region’s wildlife) agree that the influx of tourism has done wonders in some sense but needs to be better managed to protect wildlife and local communities.
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There wasn’t a boat in sight. Without other vessels to help us spot wildlife, the chances of seeing orcas were dramatically lower.
And then finally, right when we thought it was not going to happen: orcas. Félix spotted the huge, black pointed dorsal fin cutting through the water with incredible precision and signalled us to get ready.
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Félix watched the orca’s behaviour for about a half hour before nodding that we could get in. He told us to take our time, be as quiet as possible, and make sure our fins stayed in the water on the surface to avoid splashing. If the orcas were going to come to us, the conditions must be right. We couldn't rush this. Hector and I slipped into the water, both trying to stay calm.
After two minutes, a juvenile orca came into sight. My heart was racing as this massive creature – not even full size – came towards us head on. I’ve been in the water with lots of marine life, and nothing quite compares to the feeling of an orca approaching you. This animal is a top predator, and making any wrong move is not an option.
Then, we were surrounded. Four other orcas, varying in size, had come to meet the juvenile, all moving in what felt like slow motion. The small one dropped down to the deep, and while we were fixated on the other orcas coming into frame, it came up with a mako shark in its mouth, eating some, then delivering the rest to ... me!
What happened next was extraordinary, and went on for about four hours. We hardly moved, and every time, they came right to us, so close that we could hardly photograph them properly.
The region is rich with mola (sunfish). These big, disc-like fish look as if they were put together incorrectly. With huge pucker lips, they are heaviest bony fish and can weigh up to 5,500 lbs (or 2,500 kgs). Called the sunfish due to their love of sunbathing, they are the perfect food for orcas. But their incredibly thick, tough skin is to penetrate.
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That's when we saw a behaviour we were not expecting: the biggest orca of the group would swim at top speed from the depths. Her force smashed into the sunfish, then caused her to spin out. The mola cracked open, insides flying everywhere, and the orcas took turns feeding on its insides and wearing its skin on their heads, parading around with their silvery new accessory.
Every now and again, the baby would bring us the mola’s guts to share, as if to say we were still allowed to be here.
Everything we knew about orcas was confirmed: they are intelligent, social and led by fierce females. These impeccable hunters are not to be messed with. Only respected.
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Andi Cross is an expedition leader, impact strategist, and SSI-certified technical diver. Through Edges of Earth, she works alongside scientists, Indigenous leaders, and coastal communities worldwide to document climate resilience and uncover solutions already working on the frontlines of conservation.
Photos and video © Edges of Earth,
