Sri Lanka is a country of rich heritage, having been influenced by both Indian and Buddhist traditions for more than 3,000 years. Renowned for its monasteries and temples, this island nation boasts a wealth of murals, carvings and sculptures, in which one animal appears to feature more than any other – the Asian elephant.
Symbolising strength, wisdom and prosperity, Asia’s largest land mammal holds cultural and religious significance in Sri Lanka to this day.
The Sri Lankan reserve of Minneriya National Park is the best place to see these magnificent beasts coming together in the wild. The seasonal convergence of around 300 animals in the country’s North Central Province is the largest natural gathering of Asian elephants in the world.
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During the wet season, the park’s lands appear to provide more than enough sustenance for the elephants to remain dispersed. But as the dry season intensifies in August and September, and water sources elsewhere start drying up, the elephants converge at Lake Minneriya. A large, ancient reservoir, it is thought to have been built by King Mahasen during the 3rd century as part of an irrigation project.
The elephants are not only drawn to Minneriya to quench their thirst: the fresh, green grass shoots, which quickly appear on the bare mud exposed as the lake’s margins begin to recede, are also a magnet. The elephants find these grasses more palatable than the increasingly dry vegetation elsewhere. During the day, they shelter from the hot sun in the forest and scrub surrounding the lake – but once the sun begins to set, the elephants emerge to feed, drink and socialise.
As different herds coalesce, this coming together offers a unique opportunity to witness the elephants’ social behaviour and group dynamics on a grand scale. Family troops are usually led by the matriarchs and invariably consist of closely related females and their attendant young.
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Younger males, who have already been cut from the apron strings, may also band together. As they form these temporary bachelor herds, it’s an opportunity for the adolescents to learn the fine arts of ascending the elephant hierarchy. By contrast, the mature bulls tend to be more solitary – although they will also mingle among the herds, especially if any females happen to be in oestrus. With all the elephants out in the open, any dominant males in ‘musth’ (an annual phase of increased testosterone levels) can also be more easily and safely observed. This naturally occurring hormonal state makes the bulls more aggressive and there’s a greater chance they’ll throw their weight around, particularly when mating opportunities present themselves.
Like all great wildlife spectacles, this annual gathering of the clans shouldn’t be taken for granted, and elephant numbers have declined in recent years. Sumith Pilapitiya, the former director general of Sri Lanka’s Department of Wildlife Conservation, believes that water releases from the nearby Moragahakanda Reservoir for irrigation have led to fluctuating water levels at Lake Minneriya. This has also drastically reduced the amount of grassland available to the elephants.
The elephant gathering has proved so popular with ecotourists in recent years that the financial benefit to the region from visitor fees and to local businesses is estimated at close to £11 million. It’s a figure that is thought to easily outstrip the amount made from higher agricultural yields. This means Minneriya’s elephants are not just cultural icons: their continued presence – providing their habitat is properly managed – represents a sound business model for generations to come as well.
Where can you see Asian elephants gather?
Udawalawe National Park
While Minneriya grabs the headlines in the dry season, Udawalawe represents your best opportunity for seeing elephants all through the year.
Wilpattu National Park
At more than 1,300km², Wilpattu is the largest national park in Sri Lanka. Most elephants are seen in the western and northern sectors of the park, where grassy habitats are prevalent.
Kaudulla National Park
Being close to Minneriya, the elephants will often head here in search of more food and water when conditions deteriorate in the more southerly and celebrated reserve.
Yala National Park
Renowned for being the place to catch up with leopards (it has one of the highest densities of this apex predator in the world), Yala also has a healthy population of 300–500 Asian elephants.
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Top image: Asian elephants at Lake Minneriya. Credit: Getty
